Rock Climbing / Upper Kern Canyon / The Kern Slabs
The Kern Slabs
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Location: Upper Kern Canyon
Lat / Long: N 35°75.626' / W 118° 37.803 '
Elevation: 2723 ft / 830 m
Route Types: Trad Climbing, Top Rope, Sport
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Drive Time Required: Approx. 1 hr. 17 min.
Est. Trail Time: Approx. 15 min.
Trail Access Difficulty: Easy
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More Details
Area Details Access Quick Tips Directions Road Status Camping Trail History
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Located approximately 5 miles past Kernville about 58.2 miles and about 1 hour 17 minutes from Bakersfield. The Kern Slabs also known as Kernville Rock can be seen from the road on the opposite side of the road as the Kern River. The Kern Slabs is a heavily used climbing area. The Kern Slabs has been one of Kern Counties Oldest and most climbed areas. The face of the Kern Slabs reaches around 300 ft. in some sections and has numerous slab, finger cracks and thin face climbs and dons an infamous lie back crack that in the original guidebook was rated 5.3 and now is rated 5.5 and is still stout for some at this rating.

This location is rich with some local history and is used by all. The area once was known for its routes being pioneering and to some quite scary with many routes having great fall potential (or slide potential) as of recently many routes have been retro bolted and on a few climbs additional bolts have been added which leads to a great debate amongst the climbing community. This is probably due to the location being close enough for local guides to use this area heavily. This is sad to some who pioneered routes like Chouinard Special and many others that have ratings of around 5.8 and if done in their original style could easily send most climbers to rethinking their lead ability. Many half pitch top rope anchors have been set up which allows for newbie′s to go and enjoy this area.

The community hopes that this type of climbing mentality or ethic does not spread to the rest of our areas. This site gets a great rating for those who are beginners and advanced alike with sporty routes like Dirty Dishes which has 13 new bolts or cornflakes (5.9+R) and Captain Crunch (5.11+R) that can give anyone a challenge with their road rash or even deck out potential.

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Access:

No Road Access Issues.

Quick Tips:

This area is best used in any other month than July or August. If climbed towards the summer or spring and the day is going to be moderately warm it is best to climb in early morning to early afternoon before the sun hits the rock. If climbed in winter it is best to climb in afternoon once the sun has gently warmed the slab face.

All routes are one main pitch overall and have many 1/2 to 3/4 pitch variations to the top. Two full ropes are need to rappel off most of these routes or you may walk off the south side of the crag. There are many two bolt anchors a half pitch up which makes for simple easy top rope setups for new or large groups.

Directions:
Road Status:
Camping:
Trail:
History:
The Kern Slabs Turnout, Topo′s & Photos′s...
The Kern Slabs
The Kern Slabs Topo 3D
The Kern Slabs Topo
The Kern Slabs Routes & Ratings
1 Branscum - Martin 5.8 yours
2 Sight Unseen 5.9 yours
3 A Piece of Cake 5.10 R yours
4 From Here To Eternity 5.10 yours
5 Cornflakes 5.9+R yours
6 Just for Kixs 5.10c yours
7 Captain Crunch 5.11R yours
8 Hooker 5.10+ yours
9 Chouinard Special 5.8+ yours
10 Think Cracks (2) 5.10d yours
11 Lieback Crack 5.5 yours
12 Friction Slab 5.8 yours
13 Clastrophobia Crack 5.3 yours
14 Thin Crack 5.10d yours
15 Initiation Crack 5.10 yours
16 Buggin Around 5.8 yours
17 Dirty Dishes 5.7 yours
18 Clouds 5.7 yours
19 Loose Book 5.6 yours
20 Parking Lot Boulder yours
Quick Route View
1 Branscum - Martin 5.8
This route starts where there is a brown streak. You climb past a bolt and then you climb over a small ceiling and them you start up slanting dihedral to the belay. Continue and follow the crack above the belay station or you can follow the dihedral on the right to the top.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: Branscum, Martin

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26 Ratings ( Avg. 2.76 )

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2 Sight Unseen 5.9
Bolted route to the right of the Branscum - Martin

Route Type: Sport, Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Quckdraws bolted

FA: Joe, Marchesini

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25 Ratings ( Avg. 2.52 )

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3 A Piece of Cake 5.10 R
The large sloping shelf to the right of Sight unseen is the start you can see a bolt near the section that looks like a mantle. The belay is on the ledge to the left of the shelf. Climb to the first bolt and then a few more challenging moves up and left and then right to a stained groove where you will find to more bolts. Next climb up the obvious slanting dihedral and finish the same line as the Branscum Martin.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: Matta, McGee

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39 Ratings ( Avg. 2.35 )

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4 From Here To Eternity 5.10
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Route Type:

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: Laeger, Carson

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25 Ratings ( Avg. 2.68 )

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5 Cornflakes 5.9+R
A Kern Slabs classic for sure this is a very committing one pitch route. This route starts in a small left facing brown corner. Once leaving the corner the route traverses right onto the face and then left to a bolt. The second bolt is up about 20 feet via some challenging climbing up a flake. Then traverse left about a body length and work your way up some face climbing for 30 feet to a welcomed bolt. The next section is very tedious and will keep you waiting for a much appreciate bolt about 30 feet out. Continue to a nice small ledge is where you will find some chain anchors.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Small TCUs or wires might be helpful.

FA: Matta, McGee

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24 Ratings ( Avg. 2.54 )

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6 Just for Kixs 5.10c
Go left from the first bolt of Captain Crunch and then it meets up with Cornflakes 90 feet up.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: Joe, Marchesini

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 2.78 )

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7 Captain Crunch 5.11R
This is and old bolt ladder that was originally named the Talisman. It has now been done free and continues up to a two bolt belay.

Route Type: Tad,

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: Carson, Laeger

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 2.46 )

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8 Hooker 5.10+
This climb starts below two bolts 20 feet up in a small scoop that is right facing. Above the scoop work your way up and left up a tiny flake and edges to a thin layback which will lead you to the bolts. Once you have passed the bolts climb up a jagged flake. Move up and left to an even higher bolt. Thirty more feet of easy climbing leads you to the belay. You may finish left on Randy′s Runout or Right to the Chouirnard Special.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: E.C Joe, Hodges

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 2.57 )

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9 Chouinard Special 5.8+
This route starts just right of hooker in a corner. Climb up the corner to the top of the block and then traverse left to some face climbing. Climb directly up and follow the bolts to up to a bolted belay stance. The second pitch just heads up to the top and is protected by some bolts and finishes at some anchors. Once upon a time this route had a 5.8+X rating but several bolts have been added to make it safer. In its original style this route was run out and a separator of boys and men. Since then quite a few bolts have been added. To some it makes this climb attainable and safe and to others it just waters it down and some of our history is lost. You make the call...

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 1" slings, quickdraws and free carabiners and belay anchors.

FA:

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29 Ratings ( Avg. 3.55 )

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10 Think Cracks (2) 5.10d
Two parallel thin cracks to the left of the Lieback Crack.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: John Allen

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36 Ratings ( Avg. 3.27 )

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11 Lieback Crack 5.5
The Lieback is a classic enjoyable route that starts in a corner with a tree about 10 ft. from the ground at this point you can get into the dihedral and start liebacking. You belay in a small notch called the "bathtub". From the bathtub you have two choices you can either go left up the Undercling 5.3 or go right out onto the face and meet up with Friction Slab 5.8.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 2", slings, quickdraws and free carabiners and belay anchors for the bathtu

FA:

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16 Ratings ( Avg. 2.5 )

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12 Friction Slab 5.8
Climb out on the ledge to the right of the start of the Lieback Crack and follow the bolts up the face to the left of Claustrophobia Crack.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA:

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13 Clastrophobia Crack 5.3
This climb shares the start with friction slab keep right until you reach the crack continue up the crack system to a belay stance. There is now a belay station on the first ledge which is good for top roping the first part of Initiation Crack or the Thin Crack to the left. If Start Claustrophobia from here you can reach some belay bolts high and avoid the natural pro belay. See photo for the start of the thin crack below to see more of this climb...

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 2", slings, quickdraws and free carabiners and belay anchors.

FA:

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14 Thin Crack 5.10d
To the Left of Initiation Crack

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 2", slings and free carabiners and belay anchors for the two bolt anchor.

FA: Brian Hodges

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15 Initiation Crack 5.10
This challenging route starts to the right of the thin crack and to the left of Buggin Around. This route follows this perfect seem in the rock once you get a ways up you may use the same belay as Claustrophobia Crack.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 1.5", slings and free carabiners and belay anchors for the two bolt anchor.

FA: Matta, Doug Robinson

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20 Ratings ( Avg. 2.9 )

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16 Buggin Around 5.8
This Climb follows a small crack that is in a scoop or you may climb the under clinging flake to the right. Continue up the flake to the passing a horizontal crack and work your way up a right facing shallow corner. From the corner make your way left and up to some jagged flake about 40 feet above. The corner is protect able to help the run out from the highest point of the flake. A bolt belay is found high above the flake. The second pitch follows some easy ledges.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Gear up to 1.5", slings and free carabiners and belay anchors for the two bolt anchor.

FA: Matta, Fletcher

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 3.53 )

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17 Dirty Dishes 5.7
This sporty route is somewhat new and is well bolted there are 13 bolts on this climb to give you an idea. Good lead for a newbie safe and sane and still a little sketchy just because it is all friction.

Route Type: Sport

Pitches: 1 +

Gear: Quickdraws 13 bolts, slings and free carabiners and belay anchors for the two bolt anchor.

FA:

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26 Ratings ( Avg. 3.5 )

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18 Clouds 5.7
This climb follows the brown streak past a bolt and an arch. Traverse up and left to a bolted belay. The next pitch is short but it will lead you to the top.

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1 +

Gear:

FA: E.C Joe, Evans

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28 Ratings ( Avg. 2.03 )

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19 Loose Book 5.6
Uhmmmmm...the name says it all...right...

Route Type: Trad

Pitches: 1

Gear:

FA:

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20 Parking Lot Boulder
Just some miscellaneous boulder problems on this boulder. This boulder has seen some legends toying around on it like John Bachar and some other Hardmen.Just some miscellaneous boulder problems on this boulder. This boulder has seen some legends toying around on it like John Bachar and some other Hardmen.

Route Type: Boulderiing

Pitches:

Gear:

FA:

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More Info?

Climbing is Dangerous! This is not intended to act as a guide these routes require skill and knowledge beyond what this info can provide you with. If you lack experience or ability please think carefully about the risk involved in climbing routes like these. This list is to act as a starting point to reach your goals and to provide a resource for knowledge of these areas not to get you to the top. This information can be incomplete and or incorrect and the resource is being updated as needed or when informed by the community. If you would like to add any info or if you have any suggestions to make this better and more helpful please feel free to contact us.

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