The Limestone can be seen from the road on the opposite side of the road as the Kern River. This area was originally developed by Dan Osmand, Tom Gilge and Mike Lechlinski and a few other locals also had some involvement. You park at the limestone campground and make your way up a steep but short hike to the left side of the formation (the left cliff) and then you can make your way around the base to the cave on the right. There is a short scramble up some class 4 limestone slab although there is a fixed rope. The old line was a bit scary so we replaced it recently with a donated line. All of the climbs are overhanging and most have nice big holds. The routes are all great and will bring some variety to your climbing. The names were chosen because during the time this this area was first developed the large limestone pockets had some quite large beehives in them and hence most of the names.
"Climb Well!"
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Access:
No Known Access Issues. The only issue may be either sweaty rock when it is damp outside and also the birds and the bee′s that occupy the cave.
Quick Tips:
This area is best used in any other month than July or August. If climbed towards the summer or spring and the day is going to be moderately warm it is best to climb in early morning to early afternoon before the sun hits the rock. If climbed in winter it is best to climb in afternoon once the sun has gently warmed the slab face. This area stays dry in the rain although the rock sweats so it feels greasy.
Overview: The Left wall is steep and obviously on the left side of the formation it has a block to belay from with one single bolt for he belayer to secure themselves with.
The Cave is to the right and dons a completely vertical ceiling.
Trail: This approach is notoriously tricky leaving most climbers in more of a cross country mode. if you park at the limestone parking lot and walk by the gate as you start crossing the street walk about 10 steps to the left (this is left if your back is to the river and you are facing the formation it is seen in our slide show on the 3d aerial topo) and cross through some reeds and climb a 5 foot slab and you will end up on the trail. The trail will begin to make it′s way to the Left Cliff. If you negotiate your way around the front once you make your way up the trail to the left wall you come across a steep section with a fixed line that leads up about 20 feet. Now make your way around the right some more to the cave.
The approach is 20 to 25 minutes or less although it is steep.
Left Wall: This wall is steep and very pumpy. Make sure the belayer secures themselves before starting a climb.
The Cave: The cave provides good shade in the morning until about noon. It also is great when it is lightly sprinkling or raining although the rock can get sweaty. There is also a bolt on the ground towards the middle on the outside of the cave for belaying.
The Limestone Turnout, Topo′s & Photos′s...
The Limestone Routes & Ratings
1Variation5.12
2Chouca of the Kern5.12
3Screaming Skull5.12b/c
4Pocket Power5.11+
5You Axed for It5.12
6Coral Reef5.12
7Cease Fire5.11c
8Under Attack Again5.12
9Under Attack5.12a/b
10Chemikill5.12b/c
11Holy Power5.13
12Grave the Failure5.11+
13Barnacle Bill5.12
Quick Route View
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1 Variation 5.12
The route is on the far left side of the overhanging face. Climb past the first two bolts an met up with the third and fourth bolt of Chouca of the Kern.
This route traverses past and old sling tied through a hole in the limestone then climbs up the arete. You climb past three bolts and end up at a two bolt anchor.
This climb starts on the left of the cave and climbs the first two bolt of Coral Reef and goes left to meet up with Under Attack to the two open shuts. This route sort of traverses right across the top lip of the cave.
Climb up two bolts and meet up with Under Attack at it's fourth bolt and climb to the central two open shuts.
Route Type:Sport
Pitches:1
Gear:Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
FA:
Rate Under Attack Again... Your Rating: Avg Rating: 48 Ratings ( Avg. 3.16 )
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9 Under Attack 5.12a/b
This climb has four bolts in the cave once you negotiate the roof then you will find three more bolts to the same open shuts for the rest of these climbs. A Definite Limestone classic.
Route Type:Sport
Pitches:1
Gear:Quickdraws 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
FA:
Rate Under Attack... Your Rating: Avg Rating: 47 Ratings ( Avg. 2.74 )
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10 Chemikill 5.12b/c
Six bolts to the same common anchor in the center above the cave.
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More Info?
Climbing is Dangerous! This is not intended to act as a guide these routes require skill and knowledge beyond what this info can provide you with. If you lack experience or ability please think carefully about the risk involved in climbing routes like these. This list is to act as a starting point to reach your goals and to provide a resource for knowledge of these areas not to get you to the top. This information can be incomplete and or incorrect and the resource is being updated as needed or when informed by the community. If you would like to add any info or if you have any suggestions to make this better and more helpful please feel free to contact us.